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Writer's pictureSil Brangold

Butter Be Good: Why Margarine Might Be Melting Under Pressure

Updated: Sep 17



When it comes to choosing between butter and margarine, many health-conscious consumers find themselves spread thin. For years, margarine was hailed as the healthier alternative, slathered with promises of heart benefits and low cholesterol. But as science evolved, we began to see cracks in margarine’s polished, processed façade. So, is butter really the villain it’s been made out to be, or is margarine the one melting under pressure?


Butter’s solid character pushes Marge to a meltdown

Butter has been around for centuries, and it hasn’t changed much—just good old cream churned into a rich, flavourful spread. The fat molecules stay in their happy, stable formation, making butter an easy to recognise source of energy. It’s a natural source of fat, primarily composed of saturated fats (around 63%) with a decent dose of monounsaturated fats (MUFAs) and a pinch of polyunsaturated fats (PUFAs). Sure, saturated fats have been demonized, but recent studies suggest they aren’t quite the heart-hating villains we once thought. Butter, especially grass-fed butter, also boasts vitamins A, D, and K2, not to mention a healthy helping of omega-3s and conjugated linoleic acid (CLA)—a fat that might actually help burn fat. Butter, it seems, knows how to make an entrance.

Now, Marge, came onto the scene in the 1800s as a cheap butter substitute and has been through a lot.  Vegetable oils — often soybean, canola, or palm— are subjected to some harsh treatments to become a palatable (and spreadable). Hydrogenation was the original answer—a process that turned liquid oils into solid fats but came with an unwanted by-product: trans fats. If trans fats were in a high school movie, they’d be the villain wearing a leather jacket, spreading chaos in your arteries. Or as the WHO would put it: no longer generally safe. Thankfully, they’ve mostly been phased out, but Marge hasn’t quite escaped its troubled past.


The method of choice is often “interesterification”, a fancy word for rearranging fatty acids to create a more butter-like texture without the trans fats. However, early research suggests that interesterified fats might not be the hero margarine hoped for, potentially messing with your metabolism. A study published in Nutrition & Metabolism (2010) found that interesterified fats raised blood glucose levels and lowered HDL cholesterol (the “good” cholesterol) compared to natural saturated fats. These changes in glucose and cholesterol metabolism could contribute to an increased risk of cardiovascular disease and metabolic disorders over time.  Luckily for Marge, there are other options, of which blending may be the most promising.  In any case, always check the labels!


Inner worth unveiled

When you pick up a block of butter, you pretty much know what you’re getting: cream and sometimes salt. Not much room for surprises there. But butter’s true beauty shines when it’s made from grass-fed cows. Why? Because grass-fed butter contains more of those heart-healthy omega-3s and CLA, and even the fat-soluble vitamins are more abundant. It’s a natural, whole food—exactly what most of us health seekers strive for.


On the other hand, Marge can be full of surprises. Depending on the brand, it might contain a mix of refined vegetable oils, emulsifiers, preservatives, and artificial flavouring. And if it’s palm oil-based, you’re not just risking your health but also the planet’s, as palm oil production can be linked to deforestation and biodiversity loss. Sure, some margarines are made with healthier oils like olive or avocado oil, which would make a difference if cold-pressed (unrefined). But they would still need a bit of processing magic to firm up! Marge also likes to spice things up with artificial flavourings, colourings, and emulsifiers—because it can’t do it all naturally.Some of these additives, such as TBHQ (tertiary butyl-hydroquinone), have raised concerns in animal studies regarding their impact on liver health and inflammation, although more human research is needed. Anyone up for it?


My heart doth melt for a fine pat of butter
www.nationalarchives.gov.uk Butter leaflet front cover to encourage the consumption of butter for good health in the 1920s (Catalogue ref: FD 1/3792)

Butter, especially from grass-fed cows, is packed with fat-soluble vitamins and healthy fats that your body can actually use. But it’s still high in saturated fat, so as with anything, moderationis key. That said, recent research suggests that butter’s saturated fats don’t deserve all the blame for heart disease. A 2016 study found no direct link between butter consumption and cardiovascular disease. Butter may not be the dietary villain it’s been painted as afterall!

Margarine’s selling point has always been its lower saturated fat content, but modern health discussions focus more on the quality of fats, not just the quantity. As we’ve mentioned, many margarines have evolved past their trans fat days, but the ultra-processing, artificial additives, and possible metabolic-disrupting effects of interesterified fats still make it a questionable choice.


In the battle of the spreads, butter might just come out on top, especially if you care about quality, natural ingredients, and taste.


Whether you’re spreading butter on your toast or cooking with it, remember, moderation is always key.



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